Frijoles Canyon, Si; Taos, New Mexico, Nada

 Fourteen years ago right about now, we had just returned from a wonderful week in Arizona. Friends of ours had given us the use of their condo in Tucson which was our base for many day trips in the area. On the way back to Iowa I wanted to spend some time in Taos, New Mexico - another one of those places I had heard/read so much about - just had to experience it for myself. After over-nighting in Santa Fe, we headed north on 285. At this point in my story, I have to share a difference of opinion my travel companion and I have - I always want to prolong a vacation as long as possible, whereas once the car is headed toward home, he wants to go.
About twenty miles up the road to Taos, Bud saw a sign for Bandelier National Monument. Neither of us new what that was, but there was an outline of a pueblo on the sign, so we decided to check it out. Bandelier lies in Frijoles Canyon where evidence of human habitation goes back hundreds of years. By 1550 the Pueblo builders had moved on. In the 1700's the canyon was home to Spanish settlers. In 1880, archaeologist Adolph Bandelier first visited the canyon. In 1916 legislation to make Bandelier a National Monument was signed by President Woodrow Wilson. At that time there was a ranch at the bottom of the canyon called The Ranch of the Ten Elders. There was no road. Supplies had to be packed in on mules and horses or lowered down from the canyon rim by rope. Between 1934 and 1941, workers from the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) built the road into Frijoles Canyon, the current visitor center, a new lodge and miles of trails.

 The pink rock that forms the canyon walls is volcano ash that was compacted over time to a crumbly rock called "tuff". Weathering gave the cliff wall a "Swiss cheese" appearance. The Puebloan people were able to enlarge these natural caves for use as homes and for storage. They also built a circular community house which stood two to three stories high and contained over 400 rooms. The outline of that structure is still visible.
What was so amazing to me was that we were allowed - encouraged - to climb up the ladders into the ruins and see them first hand. I wasn't too sure about my climbing abilities - there were four or five of these really long ladders to navigate - but I really wanted to experience the inside of those caves.

 Even after making it to the main cave, there were still more ladders up to the individual rooms. Bandelier is one place I would love to go back to explore more thoroughly.

 Only one of the kivas had had its roof rebuilt to show what the ceremonial structures were originally like.  The others were left as they were found with the roofs collapsed. Here Bud is standing in the large cave and looking down into one of the kivas just before climbing the ladder down into it.
Frijoles Canyon extends for miles and contains many more scenic and historic areas, some of which are just now reopening after the devastating Las Conchas fire in June and July this year followed by flooding of Frijoles Creek. Other areas won't reopen for months or years. Luckily the new visitors' center and other structures were spared. Pots, paintings and historical furniture were moved to safety ahead of the fire.

This terra cotta t-shirt with the ruins pictured on it was my souvenir from Bandelier. Every time I wear it I remember this serendipitous find. I still belabor the fact that I only got to spend a couple hours in Taos due to taking up the morning at Bandelier - but it was worth it.

(Can you see the sun and crescent moon petroglyphs in the top picture?)